le
smell, and a large tub of water. The floor was strewn with straw, and
under the roof was a platform extending across one end of the building.
This was covered with soft hay, and reached by means of a ladder, for
the purpose of getting the full effect of the steam. Some stools, and a
bench for our clothes, completed the arrangements. There was also in one
corner a pitcher of water, standing in a little heap of snow to keep it
cool.

The servant-girl came in after us, and Mr. W. quietly proceeded to
undress, informing us that the girl was bathing-master, and would do the
usual scrubbing and shampooing. This, it seems, is the general practice
in Finland, and is but another example of the unembarrassed habits of
the people in this part of the world. The poorer families go into their
bathing-rooms together--father, mother, and children--and take turns in
polishing each other's backs. It would have been ridiculous to have
shown any hesitation under the circumstances--in fact, an indignity to
the honest simple-hearted, virtuous girl--and so we deliberately
undressed also. When at last we stood, like our first parents in
Paradise, "naked and not ashamed," she handed us bunches of birch-twigs
with the leaves on, the use of which was suggested by the leaf of
sculpture. We mounted to the platform and lay down upon our backs,
whereupon she increased the temperature by throwing water upon the hot
stones, until the heat was rather oppressive, and we began to sweat
profusely. She then took up a bunch of birch-twigs which had been dipped
in hot water, and switched us smartly from head to foot. When we had
become thoroughly parboiled and lax, we descended to the floor, seated
ourselves upon the stools, and were scrubbed with soap as thoroughly as
propriety permitted. The girl was an admirable bather, the result of
long practice in the business. She finished by pouring hot water over
us, and then drying us with warm towels. The Finns frequently go out and
roll in the snow during the progress of the bath. I ventured so far as
to go out and stand a few seconds in the open air. The mercury was at
zero, and the effect of the cold on my heated skin was delightfully
refreshing.

I dressed in a violent perspiration, and then ran across to Herr
Forstrom's house, where tea was already waiting for us. Here we found
the _lansman_ or magistrate of the Russian district opposite, a Herr
Braxen, who was decorated with the order of Stanislaus for h