bstitute. The _poesk_ of
reindeer skin is the warmest covering for the body which could be
devised. It is drawn over the head like a shirt, fitting closely around
the neck and wrists, where it is generally trimmed with ermine, and
reaching half-way below the knee. A thick woollen sash, wrapped first
around the neck, the ends then twisted together down to the waist,
where they are passed tightly around the body and tied in front, not
only increases the warmth and convenience of the garment, but gives it a
highly picturesque air. Our sea-otter caps, turned down so as to cover
the ears and forehead, were fastened upon our heads with crimson
handkerchiefs, and our boas, of black and red squirrel tails, passed
thrice around the neck, reached to the tips of our noses. Over our
dog-skin mittens we drew gauntlets of reindeer skin, with which it was
difficult to pick up or take hold of anything; but as the deer's rein is
twisted around one's wrist, their clumsiness does not interfere with the
facility of driving. It would seem impossible for even Arctic cold to
penetrate through such defences--and yet it did.

Herr Forstrom prepared us for the journey by a good breakfast of
reindeer's marrow, a justly celebrated Lapland delicacy, and we set out
with a splendidly clear sky and a cold of 12 deg. below zero. The Muonio
valley was superb, towards sunrise, with a pale, creamy, saffron light
on the snow, the forests on the tops of the hills burning like jagged
masses of rough opal, and the distant range of Palastyntre bathed in
pink light, with pure sapphire shadows on its northern slopes. These
Arctic illuminations are transcendent; nothing can equal them, and
neither pen nor pencil can describe them. We passed through Muonioniska,
and kept up the Russian side, over an undulating, wooded country. The
road was quite good, but my deer, in spite of his size and apparent
strength, was a lazy beast, and gave me much trouble. I was obliged to
get out of the pulk frequently and punch him in the flanks, taking my
chance to tumble in headlong as he sprang forward again. I soon became
disgusted with reindeer travelling, especially when, after we had been
on the road two hours and it was nearly dark, we reached Upper
Muonioniska, only eight miles. We there took the river again, and made
better progress to Kyrkessuando, the first station, where we stopped an
hour to feed the deer. Here there was a very good little inn, with a bed
for travellers.