ughly that they were all found the next morning in the same places
where they had been left the evening before. They were tried at Alten,
the two ringleaders executed, and a number of the others sent to the
penitentiary at Christiania. This summary justice put a stop to all open
and violent manifestations of religious frenzy, but it still exists to
some extent, though only indulged in secret.
We paid a visit to Pastor Hvoslef on Monday, and had the pleasure of his
company to dinner in the evening. He is a Christian gentleman in the
best sense of the term, and though we differed in matters of belief, I
was deeply impressed with his piety and sincerity. Madame Hvoslef and
two rosy little Arctic blossoms shared his exile--for this is nothing
less than an exile to a man of cultivation and intellectual tastes. In
his house I saw--the last thing one would have expected to find in the
heart of Lapland--a piano. Madame Hvoslef, who is an accomplished
performer, sat down to it, and gave us the barcarole from Massaniello.
While in the midst of a maze of wild Norwegian melodies, I saw the
Pastor whisper something in her ear. At once, to our infinite amazement,
she boldly struck up "Yankee Doodle!" Something like an American
war-whoop began to issue from Braisted's mouth, but was smothered in
time to prevent an alarm. "How on earth did that air get into Lapland!"
I asked. "I heard Ole Bull play it at Christiania," said Madame Hvoslef,
"and learned it from memory afterwards."
The weather changed greatly after our arrival. From 23 deg. below zero on
Sunday evening, it rose to 8-1/2 deg. above, on Monday night, with a furious
hurricane of snow from the north. We sent for our deer from the hills
early on Tuesday morning, in order to start on our return to Muoniovara.
The Lapps, however, have an Oriental disregard of time, and as there was
no chance of our getting off before noon, we improved part of the delay
in visiting the native schools and some of the earthen huts, or, rather,
dens, in which most of the inhabitants live. There were two schools,
each containing about twenty scholars--fat, greasy youngsters, swaddled
in reindeer skins, with blue eyes, light brown or yellow hair, and tawny
red cheeks, wherever the original colour could be discerned. As the
rooms were rather warm, the odour of Lapp childhood was not quite as
fresh as a cowslip, and we did not tarry long among them.
Approaching the side of a pile of dirt covered wit
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