oughfare of Stockholm, which leads to the Square
of Gustavus Adolphus, flanked on either side by the palace of the Crown
Prince and the Opera House. The northern suburb is the fashionable
quarter, containing all the newest streets and the handsomest private
residences. The ground rises gradually from the water, and as very
little attention is paid to grading, the streets follow the undulations
of the low hills over which they spread, rising to the windmills on the
outer heights and sinking into the hollows between. The southern suburb,
however, is a single long hill, up the steep side of which the houses
climb, row after row, until they reach the Church of St. Catherine,
which crowns the very summit. In front of the city (that is eastward,
and toward the Baltic), lie two other islands, connected by bridges with
the northern suburb. Still beyond is the Djurgard, or Deer-Park, a
singularly picturesque island, nearly the whole of which is occupied by
a public park, and the summer villas of the wealthy Stockholmers. Its
natural advantages are superior to those of any other park in Europe.
Even in April, when there was scarcely a sign of spring, its cliffs of
grey rock, its rolling lawns of brown grass, and its venerable oaks,
with their iron trunks and gnarled, contorted boughs, with blue glimpses
of ice-free water on all sides, attracted hundreds of visitors daily.
The streets of Stockholm are, with but two or three exceptions, narrow
and badly paved. The municipal regulations in regard to them appear to
be sadly deficient. They are quite as filthy as those of New-York, and
the American reader will therefore have some idea of their horrid
condition. A few _trottoirs_ have been recently introduced, but even in
the Drottning-gatan, the principal street, they are barely wide enough
for two persons to walk abreast. The pavements are rough, slippery, and
dangerous both to man and beast. I have no doubt that the great number
of cripples in Stockholm is owing to this cause. On the other hand, the
houses are models of solidity and stability. They are all of stone, or
brick stuccoed over, with staircases of stone or iron, wood being
prohibited by law, and roofs of copper, slate or tiles. In fact, the
Swedes have singularly luxurious ideas concerning roofs, spending much
more money upon them, proportionately, than on the house itself. You
even see wooden shanties with copper roofs, got up regardless of
expense. The houses are well l
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