281

CHAPTER XXV.

FINMARK AND HAMMERFEST.

Visit to the Lapps--Scenery of Tromsdal--Phenomena of the Arctic
Summer--The Lapp _Gammes_--A Herd of Reindeer--The Midnight Sun
and its Effect--Scenery of the Alten Fjord--Pastor Hvoslef--Mr.
Thomas and his Home--Altengaard--A Polar Bishop--An Excited
Discussion--Whales--Appearance of Hammerfest--Fishy Quarters. 289

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

Plans of Travellers--Ship for the Varanger Fjord--Scenery of
Mageroe--Miraculous Provision for human Life--Fisheries on the
Coast--The Porsanger Fjord--Coast Scenery--Svaerholtklub--Rousing
the Sea Gulls--Picture of the Midnight Sun--Loss of a Night--The
Church of the Lapps--Wonderful Rock-painting--Nordkyn. 300

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE VARANGER FJORD--ARCTIC LIFE.

The Tana Fjord--Another Midnight--Desolation--Arctic Life--The
Varanger Fjord--The Fort of Vardohuus--Arrival at Vadso--Summer
there--More of the Lapps--Climate and Delights of Living--Rich
Fishing--Jolly young Englishmen--Daylight Life--Its Effects,
physical and Moral--Trees of Hammerfest--An astronomical Monument. 310

CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE RETURN TO DARKNESS--NORWEGIAN CHARACTER.

Splendour of the Northern Coast Scenery--Growth of Vegetation
--Government of the Lapps--Pastor Lamers and his Secession--
Religion in the North--An intelligent Clergyman--Discussions on
Board--Starlight and Lamp-light--Character of the Norwegians
--Their national Vanity--Jealousy of Sweden. 321

CHAPTER XXIX.

DRONTHEIM AND BERGEN.

Trouble at Drontheim--Valley of the Nid--The Lierfoss--Picture
of Christiansund--Molde and Romsdal--The Vikings and their
Descendants--The Rock of Hornelen--Rainy Bergen--A Group of
Lepers--Norwegian Filth--Licentiousness--Picture of Bergen--Its
Streets--Drunkenness--Days of Sunshine--Home-sick for Hammerfest
--The Museum--Delays and dear Charges. 330

CHAPTER XXX.

A TRIP TO THE VORING-FOSS.

Parting View of Bergen--Lovely Scenery--Interested Kindness--The
Roads of Norway--Uncomfortable Quarters--Voyage on the Osterfjord
--Bolstadoren--Swindling Postillions--Arrival at Vossevangen--
Morning Scenery--Agriculture in Norway--Destruction of the Forests
--Descent to Vasenden--A Captain on Leave--Crossing the Fjeld--The
Shores of Ulvik--Hardanger Scenery--Angling and Anglers--Pedar
Halstensen--National Song of Norway--Saebo--A stupendous Defile
--A