ng the dry months, as the boats are compelled to take very
circuitous routes to pass from the Hoogly, through the Sonderbunds,
into the Ganges.

The land journey is performed in post-palanquins, carried by men,
who, like horses, are changed every four or six miles. The
traveller proceeds by night as well as day, and at each station
finds people ready to receive him, as a circular from the post-
office is always sent a day or two before, to prepare them for his
arrival. At night the train is increased by the addition of a
torch-bearer, to scare off the wild beasts by the glare of his
torch. The travelling expenses for one person are about 200 rupees
(20 pounds), independent of the luggage, which is reckoned
separately.

The journey by water can be accomplished in steamers, one of which
leaves almost every week for Allahabad (135 miles beyond Benares).
The journey occupies from fourteen to twenty days, as, on account of
the numerous sand-banks, it is impossible for the vessel to proceed
on her course except in the day-time, and even then it is by no
means unusual for her to run aground, especially when the water is
low.

The fares to Benares are: first cabin, 257 rupees (25 pounds 14s.);
second cabin, 216 rupees (21 pounds 12s.). Provisions, without wine
or spirits, three rupees (6s.) a day.

As I had heard so much of the magnificent banks of the Ganges, and
of the important towns situated on them, I determined to go by
water.

On the 8th of December, according to the advertisement, the steamer
"General Macleod," 140 horse-power, commanded by Captain Kellar, was
to leave her moorings; but on going on board, I received the
gratifying intelligence that we should have to wait twenty-four
hours, which twenty-four hours were extended to as much again, so
that we did not actually set off before 11 o'clock on the morning of
the 10th. We first proceeded down the stream to the sea as far as
Katcherie, and on the following day we rounded Mud Point, and
entered the Sonderbunds, where we beat about as far as Culna. From
there we proceeded up the Gury, a large tributary stream flowing
into the Ganges below Rumpurbolea. During the first few days, the
scenery was monotonous to the highest degree; there were neither
towns nor villages to be seen; the banks were flat, and the prospect
everywhere bounded by tall, thick bushes, which the English term
_jungles_, that is to say, "virgin forests." For my own part, I
could see