que Aurang Zeb is most worthy of
the notice of travellers. It is famous on account of its two
minarets, which are 150 feet high, and are said to be the slenderest
in the world. They look like two needles, and certainly are more
deserving of the name than that of Cleopatra at Alexandria. Narrow
winding staircases in the interior lead to the top, upon which a
small platform, with a balustrade a foot high, is erected. It is
fortunate for those who are not subject to dizziness. They can
venture out, and take a bird's-eye view of the endless sea of
houses, and the innumerable Hindoo temples; the Ganges also, with
its step quays, miles long, lies exposed below. I was told that on
very clear, fine days, a distant chain of mountains was perceivable--
the day was fine and clear, but I could not see the mountains.

The observatory is a very remarkable and artistic building. It was
built by Dscheising, under the intelligent Emperor Akbar, more than
two centuries since. There are no ordinary telescopes to be found
there: all the instruments are constructed of massive blocks of
stone. Upon a raised terrace, to which stone steps lead, stand
circular tables, semicircular and quadratic curves, etc. which are
covered with signs, writing, and lines. With these instruments, the
Brahmins made, and still make, their observations and calculations.
We met with several Brahmins busily engaged with calculations and
written treatises.

Benares is on the whole the chief seat of Indian learning. Among
the Brahmins, 6,000 in number, I was told there were many who give
instruction in astronomy, Sanscrit, and other scientific subjects.

The sacred apes are another of the curiosities of Benares. Their
principal location is upon some of the immense mango-trees in the
suburbs of Durgakund. The animals seemed as if they knew we had
come to see them, for they approached quite close to us; but when
the servant, whom I had sent for some food for them, returned, and
called them to him, it was amusing to see the merry creatures come
running from the trees, the roofs of the houses, and the streets.
We were in a moment closely surrounded by several hundreds, who
fought together in the most comical manner for the fruits and grain.
The largest or oldest acted as commander. Wherever there was
quarrelling, he rushed in, and commenced thrashing the combatants,
threatening them with his teeth, and making a muttering sound, upon
which they immediatel