in this part of the
country a European woman is a rarity. They brought me wood, milk,
and eggs. My table was always rather frugally furnished: at the
best I had rice boiled in milk or some eggs, but generally only
rice, with water and salt. A leathern vessel for water, a little
saucepan for boiling in, a handful of salt, and some rice and bread,
were all that I took with me.

15th February. Late in the evening I reached Nurankura, a small
place surrounded by low mountains. I found here some tents
belonging to Captain Burdon, a maid, and a servant. Terribly
fatigued, I entered one of the tents directly, in order to rest
myself. Scarcely had I taken possession of the divan, than the maid
came into the tent, and, without any observation, commenced kneading
me about with her hands. I would have stopped her, but she
explained to me that when a person was fatigued it was very
refreshing. For a quarter of an hour she pressed my body from head
to foot vigorously, and it certainly produced a good effect--I found
myself much relieved and strengthened. This custom of pressing and
kneading is very common in India, as well as in all Oriental
countries, especially after the bath; and Europeans also willingly
allow themselves to be operated upon.

The maid informed me, partly by signs, partly by words, that I had
been expected since noon; that a palanquin stood ready for me, and
that I could sleep as well in it as in the tent. I was rejoiced at
this, and again started on my journey at 11 o'clock at night. The
country was indeed, as I knew, infested with tigers, but as several
torch-bearers accompanied us, and the tigers are sworn enemies of
light, I could composedly continue my uninterrupted sleep. About 3
o'clock in the morning, I was set down again in a tent, which was
prepared for my reception, and furnished with every convenience.

16th February. This morning I made the acquaintance of the amiable
family of the Burdons. They have seven children, whom they educate
chiefly themselves. They live very pleasantly and comfortably,
although they are wholly thrown on their own resources for
amusement, as there are, with the exception of Dr. Rolland, no
Europeans in Kottah. It is only very rarely that they are visited
by officers who may be passing through, and I was the first European
female Mrs. Burdon had seen for four years.

I passed the most delightful day in this family circle. I was not a
little astonished