to find here all the conveniences of a well-
regulated house; and I must take this opportunity of describing, in
few words, the mode of travelling adopted by the English officers
and officials in India.
In the first place, they have tents which are so large, that they
contain two or three rooms; one which I saw was worth more than 800
rupees (80 pounds). They take with them corresponding furniture,
from a footstool to the most elegant divan; in fact, nearly the
whole of the house and cooking utensils. They have also a multitude
of servants, every one of whom has his particular occupation, which
he understands exceedingly well. The travellers, after passing the
night in their beds, about 3 o'clock in the morning either lie or
sit in easy palanquins, or mount on horseback, and after four or
five hours' ride, dismount, and partake of a hot breakfast under
tents. They have every household accommodation, carry on their
ordinary occupations, take their meals at their usual hours, and
are, in fact, entirely at home.
The cook always proceeds on his journey at night. As soon as the
tents are vacated, they are taken down and quickly removed, and as
quickly re-erected: there is no scarcity of hands or of beasts of
burden. In the most cultivated countries of Europe, people do not
travel with so much luxury and ease as in India.
In the evening, I was obliged to take my departure again. Captain
Burdon very kindly offered me the use of his palanquin and the
necessary bearers as far as Indos, but I pitied the people too much,
and declared that I did not find travelling on camels unpleasant;
that in fact, on account of the open view, that mode was to be
preferred to palanquins. However, on account of my little
portmanteau, I took a third camel. I left the sepoys behind here.
This evening we went eight miles towards the little town Patan.
17th February. It was not till this morning that I saw Patan was
situated on a romantic chain of hills, and possesses several
remarkably handsome temples, in the open halls belonging to which
are placed sculptured stone figures, the size of life. The
arabesques and figures on the pillars were sharply executed in
relief. In the valleys which we passed through, there was a large
quantity of basaltic rock and most beautifully crystallized quartz.
Towards evening, we reached Batschbachar, a miserable little town.
18th February. Rumtscha is somewhat larger and better. I was
obliged
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