to put up my bed in the middle of the bazaar under an open
verandah. Upon this road there were no caravansaries. Half of the
inhabitants of the town gathered round me, and watched all my
motions and doings with the greatest attention. I afforded them an
opportunity of studying the appearance of an angry European female,
as I was very much displeased with my people, and, in spite of my
slight knowledge of the language, scolded them heartily. They
allowed the camels to go so lazily, that although we had travelled
since early in the morning until late in the evening, we had not
gone more than twenty or twenty-two miles, not faster than an ox-
waggon would have gone. I made them understand that this negligence
must not happen again. I must now take occasion to contradict those
persons who affirm that the camel can travel on the average eighty
miles daily, and that even when they go slowly, their steps are very
long. I examine every circumstance very accurately, and then form
an opinion from my own experience, without allowing myself to be
misled by what has been written about it. Before commencing a
journey, I observe not only the principal distances, but also those
between the individual places, arrange a plan of my journey with the
help of friends who are acquainted with the subject, and by this
means have the advantage over my driver, who cannot persuade me that
we have gone forty or sixty miles, when we have not gone more than
half this distance. Moreover, I was able, while travelling from
Delhi to Kottah by the ox-waggon, to observe several camel
equipages, which I fell in with every evening at the same night
station. It is true that I had most excellent oxen, and that the
camels were ordinary; but in this journey, with good camels, I did
not go more than thirty, or at the utmost, thirty-two miles in the
day, and travelled from 4 o'clock in the morning until 6 in the
evening, without any other stoppage than two hours at noon. A camel
which is able to travel eighty miles in a day is an exception to the
general rule, and would scarcely perform such a feat the second or
third time.

19th February. Ranera is an unimportant place. I was here offered
a cow-stall to sleep in. It was indeed kept very clean; but I
preferred sleeping in the open air.

Till a late hour of the night this town was very lively:
processions of men and a number of women and children followed the
noise of the tam-tam, which they accom