people would not pay. The caravansary did not
appear to the cheprasse very safe, and he had requested a guard in
the evening from the serdar (magistrate). The people might have
slept quite soundly in some corner of the court-yard, and, perhaps,
have dreamt of watching, for although I had looked out several times
during the night, there was not one of them to be seen; however,
what can one expect for a few pence? I satisfied them with a small
present, upon which they made a regular military movement, and
allowed us to proceed.

If I had been inclined to be timid, I must have been in continual
anxiety for several days from the appearance of the natives.

All of them were armed with sabres, bows and arrows, matchlocks,
formidable clubs bound with iron, and even shields of ironplate.
These arms were also carried by the cattle tenders in the fields.
But nothing disturbed my equanimity, although ignorant of the
language, and with only the old cheprasse with me; I always felt as
though my last hours were not yet come. Nevertheless, I was glad
that we had passed by clear daylight the dangerous ravines and deep
gorges through which our road lay for several miles. From these we
entered a large valley, at the entrance of which was an isolated
mountain, surmounted by a fortress; four miles further on, we came
to a small group of trees, in the middle of which was a stone
terrace, five feet in height, upon which was a life-size statue of a
horse carved in stone. By the side of this a well was dug out; a
kind of cistern, built of large blocks of red sandstone, with steps
leading up to the water.

Similar wells and cisterns, some of which are much larger, screened
by beautiful mango and tamarind trees, are frequently met with in
India, especially in districts where, as in the present one, good
springs are scarce. The Hindoos and Mahomedans have the good belief
that by the erection of works for general benefit, they may more
easily attain future happiness. When such water reservoirs and
groups of trees have been founded by Hindoos, several sculptured
figures of their deities, or red painted stones, are commonly found
placed on them. At many of the wells, and cisterns also, a man is
placed, whose business it is to draw water for the weary travellers.

However agreeable the erection of these reservoirs may be in many
respects, there is one circumstance which detracts from their value;
the people always wash and bathe in the