--no palanquins, and on this road there were no
bungalows. Unfortunately, the caravansaries in the smaller villages
are not to be compared with those in the larger towns; the cells are
rudely constructed of clay, their length is scarcely seven feet, and
the small opening, only four feet high, is without a door; but, to
my astonishment, I found them always very cleanly swept, and I was
also furnished with a low wooden stool, covered with network, upon
which I threw my wrapper, and which served me for an excellent
couch. The cheprasse laid himself, like Napoleon's Mameluke, before
the entrance of my cell; but he slept much more soundly, for, even
on the first night, he did not hear the least of a very sharp
encounter which I had with an enormous dog that had been attracted
by my well-filled provision basket.

31st January. Towards noon, we passed through the little town of
Balamgalam, in which there is a small English military station, a
mosque, and a very recently-erected Hindoo temple. We passed the
night in the little town of Palwal.

In this neighbourhood, the peacocks are very tame. Every morning, I
saw dozens of these beautiful birds on the trees; they come into the
fields, and even into the towns, to fetch food from the good-natured
natives.

1st February. Our night's station on this day was the small town of
Cossi. We had already been overtaken during the last mile by a
number of natives, who were busily hurrying into the town, in and
outside of which a considerable cattle-market was being held. This
market presented a picture of the greatest confusion; the animals
stood on all sides between a multitude of trusses of hay and straw,
the sellers crying and praising their wares without cessation, and
leading the buyers here and there, partly by persuasion and partly
by force, who also made no less noise than the former.

I was most struck by the innumerable cobblers, who set up their
simple working implements between the piled-up bundles of hay and
straw, consisting of small tables with thread, wire, and leather,
and who were busily engaged at their trade, repairing the coverings
for the feet. I remarked at this time, as well as on several other
occasions, that the natives are by no means so indolent as they are
generally represented to be, but, on the contrary, that they avail
themselves of every favourable opportunity of earning money. All
the caravansaries at the entrance of the town were crowded, a