ere very rarely attacked
in India, and that the Thugs were much reduced in numbers.
Moreover, they did not make any attempt upon Europeans, as the
English government instituted the strictest search for the culprits.
With regard, therefore, to the danger, I was tolerably at ease, but
I had still to anticipate privation and fatigue.

The first part of the journey was to Kottah, distant 290 miles. I
had the choice of three modes of conveyance--palanquins, camels, or
oxen bailis. None of them are expeditious; there are no highroads,
and no organized accommodation for travelling; you must retain the
same men and animals to the end of the journey, and, at the utmost,
cannot go more than from twenty to twenty-two miles in one day. For
a palanquin, it is necessary to engage eight bearers, besides
several for the luggage. Although each does not receive more than
eight rupees a-month, out of which he pays his own expenses; still
the expense is heavy, because so many are required, and their return
journey must be paid for. Travelling on camels is also expensive,
and is the most inconvenient. I decided, therefore, on adopting the
less costly mode of conveyance by oxen. As I travelled alone, Dr.
Sprenger very kindly made all the necessary preparations; he drew up
a written contract with the tschandrie (waggoner) in Hindostanee to
the effect that I was to pay him the half of the fare, fifteen
rupees (1 pounds 10s.), immediately, and the other half when we
arrived at Kottah, to which place he was to bring me in fourteen
days; for every day over that time I had the right to deduct three
rupees (6s.) Dr. Sprenger also sent one of his most trusty
cheprasses {193} to accompany me, and his good wife furnished me
with an excellent warm wrapper, and every kind of provision, so that
my waggon would hardly hold all that I had.

With a sorrowful heart I parted from my good country people. God
grant that I may see them yet again during my life!

On the morning of 30th of January, 1848, I left Delhi. The first
day, we made very little progress, only eighteen miles, which
brought us to Faridabad; the heavy awkward animals required to be
first used to the draught. The first twelve miles of the journey
afforded me some gratification, as along both sides of the road lay
innumerable ruins, which I had visited with my friends only a few
days previously.

This, as well as the following nights, were passed in caravansaries.
I had no tent