for two persons, although I have
seen three or four crowded into them. This put me in mind of the
Italians, who fill a carriage so that not even the steps are left
vacant. These cars are called baili. They are closely curtained
when women travel in them.

I expected to see the streets here full of camels and elephants,
since I had read so much about it in some descriptions: but I saw
only bailis drawn by oxen and a few horsemen, but neither camels nor
elephants.

Towards evening we drove to Deinapore, {162} which is eight miles
from Patna, along an excellent post-road, planted with handsome
trees.

Deinapore is one of the largest English military stations, and
contains extensive barracks, which almost constitute a town in
themselves. The town is but a short distance from the barracks.
There are many Mahomedans among the inhabitants, who surpass the
Hindoos in industry and perseverance.

I here saw elephants for the first time on the Indian continent. In
a serai outside the town there were eight large handsome animals.

When we returned to the ship in the evening, we found it like a
camp. All kinds of articles were brought there and laid out for
inspection; but the shoemakers were particularly numerous. Their
work appeared neat and lasting, and remarkably cheap. A pair of
men's boots, for example, cost from one and a half to two rupees
(3s. to 4s.); but it is true that twice as much is always asked for
them. I saw on this occasion the way in which the European sailors
conduct bargains with the natives. One of the engineers wanted to
buy a pair of shoes, and offered a quarter of the price asked. The
seller, not consenting to this, took his goods back; but the
engineer snatched them out of his hand, threw down a few beis more
than what he had offered, and hastened to his cabin. The shoemaker
pursued him, and demanded the shoes back; instead of which he
received several tough blows, and was threatened that if he was not
quiet he should be compelled to leave the ship immediately. The
poor creature returned half crying to his pack of goods.

A similar occurrence took place on the same evening. A Hindoo boy
brought a box for one of the travellers, and asked for a small
payment for his trouble; he was not listened to. The boy remained
standing by, repeating his request now and then. He was driven
away, and as he would not go quietly, blows were had recourse to.
The captain happened to pass accidentall