ngers and the valuable cargoes which go by that important water
route.

More picturesque than most of the scenery I had so far witnessed on the
Amazon was the narrow Foro da Jararaca. From the lamp-post--it cannot in
all honesty be called a lighthouse--of Mandy, we made for the other
lamp-post of Capin; and from this for the third lamp-post of Arrozal,
navigation being most difficult in that part. From there we steered
direct for the Farol de Cutijuba, a light somewhat more respectable than
the others at the entrance of the Barra of Para.

After going through the bay of Coralhina we did not follow the great
channel that was before us, but skirted the island of Concepcao to the
left, passing between it and Paketta Island. After that island we found
ourselves in the bay of Jappelin, so named after a bird of that region,
which builds an elongated nest.

Having passed the Cutijuba Island, and then the Taxipa Island on our
left, in the early morning we entered between the islands of Arabiranga
and Jararakinha. The larger vessels generally follow a course outside on
the east of this island before entering the large bay of Marajo.

We could plainly see that we were approaching a large city, for
quantities of little sailing boats were now visible on the water. Signs
of civilization were beginning to appear on the island of Arabiranga. A
brick and tile kiln, which supplied Belem (Para) with most of its
building materials, had been established there. Alongside the island
could be seen a lot of steamers belonging to the Amazon River Company.
Beyond was the bay of Guajara, with the city and many ocean steamers
looming in the distance.

On November 18th we steamed into the bay, and there stood the city of
Belem (Para) before us, while the noise of the town began to get louder
and louder as we approached the dock. That sound was welcome to me in a
way, and at the same time worrying, after the dead silence I had been
accustomed to for the last many months.

A swarm of robber-porters invaded the steamer the moment we came
alongside the pier. The bustle, the loud shouting, the pushing, seemed
most irritating. Ill as I was, for a few moments I almost contemplated
the idea of turning back toward the virgin forest. The heat was
oppressive, the bells of the tramways jangled all the time, the rattle of
the mediaeval carriages on the cobble-stones of the pavement was
distressing.

Things were not pleasanter when I put up in the best h