tent of our travelling
wardrobe, he would, perhaps, be somewhat astonished that we had that.
Nevertheless, the discovery perplexed us. The next day was Sunday; all
the village would appear in clean clothes; it was mortifying that we
could not do so too, and, besides, we had some little feeling on the
score of personal comfort. In Europe, with a frock-coat buttoned tight
across the breast, black stock, and one pair of pantaloons, hat, and
boots, the traveller is independent of the world, but not so under the
hot sun of Yucatan. We sent Albino out to look for supplies, but he
returned unsuccessful, though he did succeed in making a bargain with a
woman to wash an entire change for us the next day; but she could
hardly be made to understand that stockings and sheets were included in
a change.

CHAPTER XV.

Buying a Wardrobe.--Crowd of Loungers.--Visit to the Ruins.--A long
Edifice built by the Spaniards.--Interesting Well.--Indian Legend.--The
Mother of the Dwarf.--Exploration of the Well.--Remains of large
Mounds.--Cogolludo.--Ancient and curious Painting.--Books and ancient
Characters of the Indians burned by the Spaniards.--Archives of
Mani.--Important Documents.--Ancient Map.--Instrument endorsed
on its Back.--Important Bearing of these Documents.--What was
Uxmal?--Argument.--No Vestiges of a Spanish Town at Uxmal.--Churches
erected by the Spaniards in all their Settlements.--No Indications of a
Church at Uxmal.--Conclusions.--Suspicions of the People.--Church and
Convent.--Extensive View from the Top of the Church.

Early in the morning Albino was in quest of some gentleman who might
have a spare camisa and pantaloons which he would be willing to part
with, and, by one of those rare pieces of good luck that sometimes
illuminate the path of a traveller, he procured both, the latter having
an elegantly embroidered bosom, which fell to Doctor Cabot; and, with
my cast-off blouse, which was in better condition than his, and a thin
frock-coat, that considered itself cast-off some time before, for
myself, we were able to make a dashing appearance in the streets.

Notwithstanding our perplexities, I had an uncommon degree of
satisfaction at waking up in Mani. I had heard of this place on my
first visit to Uxmal, of relics and heirlooms in the hands of the
cacique, and of ruins, which, however, we were advised were not worth
visiting. The morning, nevertheless, did not open with much