nsumed at a meal, and that Indian, he knew, had not a
medio in the world to pay his capitation tax. One of the gentlemen
present then suggested that the government had lately passed an
iniquitous law that no Indian should be compelled to work unless he
chose; if he refused, he could not be whipped or imprisoned, and what
could be expected in such a state of things? Another gentleman
interposed with great unction, declaring that the alcalde of a
neighbouring village did not mind the law, but went on whipping the
same as before. All this time a dozen Indians, by the constitution free
and independent as themselves, sat on the ground without saying a word,
merely staring from one to the other of the speakers.

After this the conversation turned upon our own party, and finally
settled upon Doctor Cabot. I regretted to find that, in a community
which had patronised him so extensively, there was some diversity of
opinion as to his qualifications. There was one dissenting voice, and
the general discussion settled down into a warm argument between
the two brothers of Don Juan, the alcalde and the keeper of the
gambling-table, the latter of whom held up an ugly sandalled foot, with
a great excrescence upon it, and said, rather depreciatingly, that the
doctor did not cure his corns. The alcalde was stanch, and thrust
forward his cured child, but his brother shook his head, still holding
out his foot, and I am sorry to say that, so far as I could gather the
sense of the community, Doctor Cabot's reputation as a medico received
somewhat of a shock.

In the afternoon the rain ceased, and we bade farewell to the new
village of Iturbide. As we passed, Don Juan left his place at the table
to bid us goodby, and a little before dark we reached the rancho
Noyaxche of Senor Trego, where we again received a cordial welcome, and
in his intelligent society found a relief from the dulness of Iturbide.

CHAPTER XII.

Journey resumed.--An Aguada.--The Aguadas artificial, and built by the
Aboriginal Inhabitants.--Examination of one by Senor Trego.--Its
Construction.--Ancient Wells.--Pits.--A Sugar Rancho.--Rancho of
'Y-a-Walthel.--Rancho of Choop.--Arrival at Macoba.--The
Ruins.--Lodgings in a miserable Hut.--Wells.--Ruined
Buildings.--Another Aguada.--Pits.--Astonishment of the
Indians.--Falling in Love at first Sight.--Interesting
Characters.--Departure.--Thick Undergrowth.--Rancho of Puut.--An
Incident.