n with brushwood, and then rises to a lateral branch of
the Andes, which is almost as high as the main chain. The Indians call
this ridge, _Manam rimacunan_ ("Thou shall not speak!"), for a heavy
wind, accompanied by drifting snow, blows constantly, and renders it
scarcely possible to open the mouth to utter a word. From Manarimacunan,
downwards, to the lower Montana, the road passes over stones laid in
_echelon_ form, and through a very slippery hollow way, which descends
rapidly downward, and is surrounded by almost impenetrable woods; the
only open and level place is the field of Chilpes, which is a few
hundred paces long.

Here it is highly interesting to contemplate the rapid increase of
vegetation, and the varied changes in the animal world. From the brink
of a ridge where only feeble vegetation can be seen, we descend a few
leagues and speedily find ourselves in the region of the Cinchona tree,
and in the evening we are among lofty palms. The first human dwellings
seen on entering the Montana are half a dozen small huts, forming the
hamlet Amaruyo, formerly called Sibis, and immediately after we come to
the village of Vitoc. It consists of about fifty wretched huts, and has
a small church, in which worship is performed twice a year for the
inhabitants of the whole valley.

Vitoc is surrounded by two rivers, which unite in a sharp angle, called
the Tingo, and which separate the valley from the territory of the wild
Indians. The valley is deep, and the surrounding heights are broken by
many quebradas. The soil is very fruitful, and the locality is less than
some others infested with troublesome insects; yet it is but scantily
peopled, for, besides the two villages and the Hacienda of Maraynioc,
already mentioned, it contains only a few scattered chacras. The
inhabitants of this, the most favored district of the Montanas, scarcely
amount to 200. The villagers employ themselves chiefly in the
cultivation of pines, which are sent to Lima. The Indians of Palca and
Tapo bring them potatoes, salt, and butcher's meat, for which the
villagers exchange their pine-apples. The fruit is conveyed by asses
to the coast, where, however, it seldom arrives in good condition. The
other productions of the Montana are maize, oranges, bananas, paltas,
Spanish pepper, &c.; but these articles are sold only in the Sierra.
Each inhabitant of the village cultivates his own piece of ground,
which he can enlarge when he pleases; but these pe