n early times this
conch was employed in the solemnities of royal interments; now its use
is exclusively reserved for the anniversaries held in commemoration of
certain events connected with the fallen Inca dynasty. The _Jaina_
appears to be of more modern origin; it is a rude kind of clarionet,
made from a reed. Its tone is indescribably melancholy, and it produces
an extraordinary impression on the natives. If a group of Indians are
rioting and drinking, or engaged in furious conflict with each other,
and the sound of the _Jaina_ is suddenly heard, the tumult ceases, as if
by a stroke of magic. A dead stillness prevails, and all listen devoutly
to the magic tones of the simple reed; tones which frequently draw tears
from the eyes of the apathetic Indian.
Their garments are all of dark and sombre hues. Dark blue is a favorite
color, and appears to be generally adopted for mourning; for whenever
the Indians follow a corpse to the grave, they always wear dark blue
ponchos. The dress of the men usually consists of short trowsers, of
coarse brown cloth, fastened round the waist by a girdle, and a woollen
or cotton shirt. They seldom wear a jacket, the ponchos of Alpaca wool
being always the outer garment. On their feet they wear sandals of
untanned leather, which merely cover the toes, and are fastened round
the ancle.
The dress of the women consists of a loose under garment, without
sleeves, and made of coarse blue woollen cloth. It is confined round the
waist by a broad girdle, called the _huccau_. Over the arms are drawn
black sleeves, reaching from the wrist to about the middle of the upper
arm. A sort of robe or tunic, called the _anacu_, descends from the
shoulders to the knees. It is fastened, not in front, but on one side.
This garment is made of a thin sort of woollen stuff. It is always
black, being worn in token of mourning for the Incas. On the occasion of
certain festivals, the Indian women wear a particolored dress, called a
_faldillin_. This garment frequently exhibits the most glaring contrasts
of color, one half being bright red, and the other yellow, in addition
to which it is sometimes adorned with flowers of brilliant hues, and
tasteless, gold embroidery. A _mantilla_, consisting of a narrow piece
of woollen cloth, passed over the shoulders, and fastened under the
chin, either with a long silver pin, or a cactus-thorn, completes the
costume. In this mantilla, or in a poncho, mothers are accustomed to
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