h a
quagmire; remembering, however, the words of my friend the beldame I went
straight forward, though in so doing I was sloughed up to the knees. In
a little time I came to rapid descent, and at the bottom of it to a
bridge. It was now very dark; only the corner of the moon was casting a
faint light. After crossing the bridge I had one or two ascents and
descents. At last I saw lights before me which proved to be those of
Llan Rhyadr. I soon found myself in a dirty little street, and,
inquiring for the inn, was kindly shown by a man to one which he said was
the best, and which was called the Wynstay Arms.

CHAPTER LXV

Inn at Llan Rhyadr--A low Englishman--Enquiries--The Cook--A Precious
Couple.

The inn seemed very large, but did not look very cheerful. No other
guest than myself seemed to be in it, except in the kitchen, where I
heard a fellow talking English and occasionally yelling an English song:
the master and the mistress of the house were civil, and lighted me a
fire in what was called the Commercial Room, and putting plenty of coals
in the grate soon made the apartment warm and comfortable. I ordered
dinner or rather supper, which in about half-an-hour was brought in by
the woman. The supper whether good or bad I despatched with the appetite
of one who had walked twenty miles over hill and dale.

Occasionally I heard a dreadful noise in the kitchen, and the woman told
me that the fellow there was making himself exceedingly disagreeable,
chiefly she believed because she had refused to let him sleep in the
house. She said that he was a low fellow that went about the country
with fish, and that he was the more ready to insult her as the master of
the house was now gone out. I asked if he was an Englishman, "Yes," said
she, "a low Englishman."

"Then he must be low indeed," said I. "A low Englishman is the lowest of
the low." After a little time I heard no more noise, and was told that
the fellow was gone away. I had a little whisky and water, and then went
to bed, sleeping in a tolerable chamber but rather cold. There was much
rain during the night and also wind; windows rattled, and I occasionally
heard the noise of falling tiles.

I arose about eight. Notwithstanding the night had been so tempestuous
the morning was sunshiny and beautiful. Having ordered breakfast I
walked out in order to look at the town. Llan Rhyadr is a small place,
having nothing remarkable in it save an anc