umbrella? He threatens to dodge the ferrule into the
ruffian's eye, and the fellow starts back and says, "Lord, sir! I meant
no harm. I never saw you before in all my life. I merely meant a little
fun." Moreover, who doubts that you are a respectable character provided
you have an umbrella? You go into a public-house and call for a pot of
beer, and the publican puts it down before you with one hand without
holding out the other for the money, for he sees that you have an
umbrella and consequently property. And what respectable man, when you
overtake him on the way and speak to him, will refuse to hold
conversation with you, provided you have an umbrella? No one. The
respectable man sees you have an umbrella, and concludes that you do not
intend to rob him, and with justice, for robbers never carry umbrellas.
Oh, a tent, a shield, a lance, and a voucher for character is an
umbrella. Amongst the very best friends of man must be reckoned an
umbrella. {12}

The way lay over dreary, moory hills; at last it began to descend, and I
saw a valley below me with a narrow river running through it, to which
wooded hills sloped down; far to the west were blue mountains. The scene
was beautiful but melancholy; the rain had passed away, but a gloomy
almost November sky was above, and the mists of night were coming down
apace.

I crossed a bridge at the bottom of the valley and presently saw a road
branching to the right. I paused, but after a little time went straight
forward. Gloomy woods were on each side of me and night had come down.
Fear came upon me that I was not on the right road, but I saw no house at
which I could inquire, nor did I see a single individual for miles of
whom I could ask. At last I heard the sound of hatchets in a dingle on
my right, and catching a glimpse of a gate at the head of a path, which
led down into it, I got over it. After descending some time I hallooed.
The noise of the hatchets ceased. I hallooed again, and a voice cried in
Welsh, "What do you want?" "To know the way to Bala," I replied. There
was no answer, but presently I heard steps, and the figure of a man drew
nigh, half undistinguishable in the darkness, and saluted me. I returned
his salutation, and told him I wanted to know the way to Bala. He told
me, and I found I had been going right. I thanked him and regained the
road. I sped onward, and in about half-an-hour saw some houses, then a
bridge, then a lake on my left