him again he left me,
without a word of salutation, and trudged away across the green.
Descending a hill I came to a bridge, under which ran a beautiful river,
which came foaming down from a gulley between two of the eastern hills.
From a man whom I met I learned that the bridge was called Pont Coomb
Linau, and that the name of the village I had passed was Linau. The
river carries an important tribute to the Dyfi, at least it did when I
saw it, though perhaps in summer it is little more than a dry
water-course.
Half-an-hour's walking brought me from this place to a small town or
large village, with a church at the entrance and the usual yew tree in
the churchyard. Seeing a kind of inn I entered it, and was shown by a
lad-waiter into a large kitchen, in which were several people. I had
told him in Welsh that I wanted some ale, and as he opened the door he
cried with a loud voice, "Cumro!" as much as to say, Mind what you say
before this chap, for he understands Cumraeg--that word was enough. The
people, who were talking fast and eagerly as I made my appearance,
instantly became silent and stared at me with most suspicious looks. I
sat down, and when my ale was brought I took a hearty draught, and
observing that the company were still watching me suspiciously and
maintaining the same suspicious silence, I determined to comport myself
in a manner which should to a certain extent afford them ground for
suspicion. I therefore slowly and deliberately drew my note-book out of
my waistcoat pocket, unclasped it, took my pencil from the loops at the
side of the book, and forthwith began to dot down observations upon the
room and company, now looking to the left, now to the right, now aloft,
now alow, now skewing at an object, now leering at an individual, my eyes
half closed and my mouth drawn considerably aside. Here follow some of
my dottings:--
"A very comfortable kitchen with a chimney-corner on the south
side--immense grate and brilliant fire--large kettle hanging over it by a
chain attached to a transverse iron bar--a settle on the left-hand side
of the fire--seven fine large men near the fire--two upon the settle, two
upon chairs, one in the chimney-corner smoking a pipe, and two standing
up--table near the settle with glasses, amongst which is that of myself,
who sit nearly in the middle of the room a little way on the right-hand
side of the fire.
"The floor is of slate; a fine brindled greyhound lies befor
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