, sir--that is, if you wish to break your neck, or to sink in a
bog, or to lose your way, or perhaps, if night comes on, to meet the Gwr
Drwg himself taking a stroll. But to talk soberly. The way over the
hills is an awful road, and, indeed, for the greater part is no road at
all."

"Well, I shall go by it. Can't you give me some directions?"

"I'll do my best, sir, but I tell you again that the road is a horrible
one, and very hard to find."

He then went with me to the gate of the inn, where he began to give me
directions, pointing to the south, and mentioning some names of places
through which I must pass, amongst which were Waen y Bwlch and Long
Bones. At length he mentioned Pont Erwyd, and said: "If you can but get
there, you are all right, for from thence there is a very fair road to
the bridge of the evil man; though I dare say if you get to Pont
Erwyd--and I wish you may get there--you will have had enough of it and
will stay there for the night, more especially as there is a good inn."

Leaving Machynlleth, I ascended a steep hill which rises to the south of
it. From the top of this hill there is a fine view of the town, the
river, and the whole valley of the Dyfi. After stopping for a few
minutes to enjoy the prospect I went on. The road at first was
exceedingly good, though up and down, and making frequent turnings. The
scenery was beautiful to a degree: lofty hills were on either side,
clothed most luxuriantly with trees of various kinds, but principally
oaks. "This is really very pleasant," said I, "but I suppose it is too
good to last long." However, I went on for a considerable way, the road
neither deteriorating nor the scenery decreasing in beauty. "Surely I
can't be in the right road," said I; "I wish I had an opportunity of
asking." Presently seeing an old man working with a spade in a field
near a gate, I stopped and said in Welsh: "Am I in the road to the Pont y
Gwr Drwg?" The old man looked at me for a moment, then shouldering his
spade he came up to the gate, and said in English: "In truth, sir, you
are."

"I was told that the road thither was a very bad one," said I, "but this
is quite the contrary."

"This road does not go much farther, sir," said he; "it was made to
accommodate grand folks who live about here."

"You speak very good English," said I; "where did you get it?"

He looked pleased, and said that in his youth he had lived some years in
England.

"Can you read?