hite shirt, which I put on.

Having dressed myself I went to the coffee-room and sat down to
breakfast. What a breakfast!--pot of hare; ditto of trout; pot of
prepared shrimps; dish of plain shrimps; tin of sardines; beautiful
beef-steak; eggs, muffin; large loaf, and butter, not forgetting capital
tea. There's a breakfast for you!

As the little freckled maid was removing the breakfast things I asked her
how old she was.

"Eighteen, sir, last Candlemas," said the freckled maid.

"Are your parents alive?"

"My mother is, sir, but my father is dead."

"What was your father?"

"He was an Irishman, sir! and boots to this inn."

"Is your mother Irish?"

"No, sir, she is of this place; my father married her shortly after he
came here."

"Of what religion are you?"

"Church, sir, Church."

"Was your father of the Church?"

"Not always, sir; he was once what is called a Catholic. He turned to
the Church after he came here."

"A'n't there a great many Methodists in Bala?"

"Plenty, sir, plenty."

"How came your father not to go over to the Methodists instead of the
Church?"

"'Cause he didn't like them, sir; he used to say they were a trumpery,
cheating set; that they wouldn't swear, but would lie through a
three-inch board."

"I suppose your mother is a Church-woman?"

"She is now, sir; but before she knew my father she was a Methodist."

"Of what religion is the master of the house?"

"Church, sir, Church; so is all the family."

"Who is the clergyman of the place?"

"Mr Pugh, sir!"

"Is he a good preacher?"

"Capital, sir! and so is each of his curates; he and they are converting
the Methodists left and right."

"I should like to hear him."

"Well, sir! that you can do. My master, who is going to church
presently, will be happy to accommodate you in his pew."

I went to church with the landlord, a tall gentlemanly man of the name of
Jones--Oh that eternal name of Jones! Rain was falling fast, and we were
glad to hold up our umbrellas. We did not go to the church at Bala, at
which there was no service that morning, but to that of a little village
close by, on the side of the lake, the living of which is incorporated
with that of Bala. The church stands low down by the lake at the bottom
of a little nook. Its name which is Llan uwch Llyn, is descriptive of
its position, signifying the Church above the Lake. It is a long, low,
ancient edifice, standing north-east by south-west. T