ustomary for
individuals who visited the cataract to insert their names. I took up
the book which contained a number of names mingled here and there with
pieces of poetry. Amongst these compositions was a Welsh englyn on the
Rhyadr, which, though incorrect in its prosody, I thought stirring and
grand. I copied it, and subjoin it with a translation which I made on
the spot.

"Crychiawg, ewynawg anian--yw y Rhyadr
Yn rhuo mal taran;
Colofn o dwr, gloyw-dwr glan,
Gorwyllt, un lliw ag arian."

Foaming and frothing from mountainous height,
Roaring like thunder the Rhyadr falls;
Though its silvery splendour the eye may delight,
Its fury the heart of the bravest appals.

CHAPTER LXXI

Wild Moors--The Guide--Scientific Discourse--The Land of Arthur--The
Umbrella--Arrival at Bala.

When I had rested myself and finished the buttermilk, I got up, and
making the good woman a small compensation for her civility, inquired if
I could get to Bala without returning to Llan Rhyadr.

"Oh yes," said she, "if you cross the hills for about five miles you will
find yourself upon a road which will take you straight to Bala."

"Is there anyone here," said I, "who will guide me over the hills,
provided I pay him for his trouble?"

"Oh yes," said she, "I know one who will be happy to guide you whether
you pay him or not."

She went out and presently returned with a man about thirty-five, stout
and well-looking, and dressed in a waggoner's frock.

"There," said she, "this is the man to show you over the hills; few know
the paths better."

I thanked her, and telling the man I was ready, bade him lead the way.
We set out, the two dogs of which I have spoken attending us, and
seemingly very glad to go. We ascended the side of the hog-backed hill
to the north of the Rhyadr. We were about twenty minutes in getting to
the top, close to which stood a stone or piece of rock, very much
resembling a church altar, and about the size of one. We were now on an
extensive moory elevation, having the brook which forms the Rhyadr a
little way on our left. We went nearly due west, following no path, for
path there was none, but keeping near the brook. Sometimes we crossed
water-courses which emptied their tribute into the brook, and every now
and then ascended and descended hillocks covered with gorse and whin.
After a little time I entered into conversation with my guide. He had
not a word of