through
which the Ceiriog or a river very similar to it flows. It is half-way
between Llangollen and Llan Rhyadr, being ten miles from each. I went to
a small inn or public-house, sat down and called for ale. A waggoner was
seated at a large table with a newspaper before him on which he was
intently staring.

"What news?" said I in English.

"I wish I could tell you," said he in very broken English, "but I cannot
read."

"Then why are you looking at the paper?" said I.

"Because," said he, "by looking at the letters I hope in time to make
them out."

"You may look at them," said I, "for fifty years without being able to
make out one. You should go to an evening school."

"I am too old," said he, "to do so now; if I did the children would laugh
at me."

"Never mind their laughing at you," said I, "provided you learn to read;
let them laugh who win!"

"You give good advice, mester," said he, "I think I shall follow it."

"Let me look at the paper," said I.

He handed it to me. It was a Welsh paper, and full of dismal accounts
from the seat of war.

"What news, mester?" said the waggoner.

"Nothing but bad," said I; "the Russians are beating us and the French
too."

"If the Rusiaid beat us," said the waggoner, "it is because the Francod
are with us. We should have gone alone."

"Perhaps you are right," said I; "at any rate we could not have fared
worse than we are faring now."

I presently paid for what I had had, inquired the way to Llan Rhyadr, and
departed.

The village of Llanarmon takes its name from its church, which is
dedicated to Garmon, an Armorican bishop, who with another called Lupus
came over into Britain in order to preach against the heresy of Pelagius.
He and his colleague resided for some time in Flintshire, and whilst
there enabled in a remarkable manner the Britons to achieve a victory
over those mysterious people the Picts, who were ravaging the country far
and wide. Hearing that the enemy were advancing towards Mold, the two
bishops gathered together a number of the Britons, and placed them in
ambush in a dark valley through which it was necessary for the Picts to
pass in order to reach Mold, strictly enjoining them to remain quiet till
all their enemies should have entered the valley and then do whatever
they should see them, the two bishops, do. The Picts arrived, and when
they were about half-way through the valley the two bishops stepped
forward from a thicket and b