235
XXVII. ICED PUDDINGS 243
XXVIII. ICE-CREAMS AND WATER-ICES 252
XXIX. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS 262
XXX. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS--_continued_ 271
XXXI. MISCELLANEOUS SWEETS--_continued_ 281
XXXII. FINE CAKES AND SAUCES 291
XXXIII. SALADS AND CHEESE DISHES 300
INDEX 309

CHOICE COOKERY.

I.

INTRODUCTION.

By choice cookery is meant exactly what the words imply. There will be
no attempt to teach family or inexpensive cooking, those branches of
domestic economy having been so excellently treated by capable hands
already. It may be said _en passant_, however, that even choice cooking
is not necessarily expensive. Many dishes cost little for the materials,
but owe their daintiness and expensiveness to the care bestowed in
cooking or to a fine sauce. For instance: cod, one of the cheapest of
fish, and considered coarse food as usually served, becomes an
epicurean dish when served with a fine Hollandaise or oyster sauce, and
it will not even then be more expensive than any average-priced boiling
fish. Flounder served as _sole Normande_ conjures up memories of the
famous Philippe, whose fortune it made, or it may be of luxurious little
dinners at other famous restaurants, and is suggestive, in fact, of
anything but economy. Yet it is really an inexpensive dish.

But while it is quite true that fine cooking does not always mean
expensive cooking, it is also true that it requires the best materials
and sufficient of them; that if satisfactory results are to be obtained
there must be no attempt to stint or change proportions from a false
idea of economy, although it must never be forgotten that all good
cooking is economical, by which I mean that there is no waste, every
cent's worth of material being made to do its full duty.

In this book the object will be to give the newest and most _recherche_
dishes, and these will naturally be expensive. Yet for those families
who depend upon the caterer for everything in the way of fine soups,
_entrees_, or sauces, because the cook can achieve only the plain part
of the dinner, it will be found a great economy as well as convenience
to be independent of