te,
Allemande, Uxelles, Soubise, Ste. Menehould, Perigueux, Supreme, besides
all the simpler ones, which take their name from the chief ingredient,
such as caper, cauliflower, celery, lobster, etc., etc.

For sauces that have vinegar or lemon juice, it is better that the
veloute, or white sauce, should have no cream until the last minute, or
it may curdle. My object in giving the recipes for sauces in the way I
intend--that is to say, by building on to, or omitting from, one
foundation sauce--is to dispel some of the confusion which exists in the
minds of many people about the exact difference between several sauces
differing from each other very slightly--a confusion which is only
added to by reading over the fully written recipes for each, as many a
painstaking, intelligent woman's headache will testify. As we progress,
the exact difference between each will be explained.

_Bechamel._--This sauce differs from the white sauce only in the fact
that the white stock used for the latter need not be very strong; for
bechamel it should either be very strong or boiled down rapidly to make
it so, and there should always be half cream instead of one third, as in
white sauce, and when required for fish the stock may be of fish. White
sauce is frequently (perhaps most frequently) made with milk, or milk
and cream, in place of stock, in this country, and answers admirably for
many purposes, but would not be what is required for the kind of cooking
intended in these pages.

Most readers know how "to stir," and it may seem quite an unnecessary
matter to go into. Yet if only one reader does not know that to stir
means a regular, even, slow circling of the spoon, _not only in the
centre_ of the saucepan, but round the sides, she will fail in making
good sauce. Stir, then, slowly, gently, going over every part of the
bottom of the saucepan till the sides are reached, pass the spoon gently
round them, thence back to the middle, and so on. In this way the sauce
gets no chance to stick to any particular spot. A small copper saucepan
is the best possible utensil for making sauce, as it does not burn.

The rule for seasoning is a level salt-spoonful of salt to half a pint;
pepper, one fourth the quantity. This, however, is only when the stock
is unseasoned; if seasoned, only salt enough must be added to season the
cream and eggs.

_Allemande._--Take half a pint of white sauce, add to it half the liquor
from a can of mushrooms, and half