of others, it must be
observed, is made twice as thick, to allow for the addition of cream,
wine, or stock. The only advantage in a private family of making it thus
thick is when, perhaps, two or three sauces are needed for a dinner; for
example, a plain white sauce for a vegetable, caper, lobster, or
cardinal for other purposes, and perhaps poulette, d'Uxelles, or other
pale sauce for an entree; but when one sauce only is required, it is
best to make that one from the beginning; that is to say, make white
sauce with the additions that form it into Allemande, supreme, or
whatever you require.

_Ste. Menehould Sauce_ is in these days chiefly associated with "pigs'
feet a la Ste. Menehould," but is good for several purposes. It is
simply half a pint of white sauce into which a dozen bruised mushrooms,
a gill of the mushroom liquor, a large teaspoonful of finely chopped
chives, with the sixth of a saltspoonful of pepper and one of salt are
allowed to simmer until the sauce is the same thickness as before the
addition of the mushroom liquor; that is to say, thick enough to mask
the spoon. Strain, return to the saucepan, and add a teaspoonful of
finely chopped sage leaves, if for pigs' feet, or parsley for other
purposes; boil once, add half a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and the
sauce is ready.

_Bearnaise Sauce._--This is one of the most difficult sauces to make, on
account of the danger of the eggs curdling; but by the following method
the work is rendered more sure than by the usual plan. It has been said
that the terrors of a cook are Bearnaise sauce and omelette soufflee,
but neither is really difficult; great care only is necessary for
success with each.

Chop four shallots fine, put them into a saucepan with half a gill of
Tarragon vinegar and half a gill of plain vinegar; boil till reduced to
one tablespoonful; then add one gill of white sauce, mixing well. Stand
the saucepan in another of boiling water; then add, one at a time, three
yolks of eggs, beating each, one well in before adding another, _and on
no account let the sauce boil_. Remove the saucepan from the fire when
the eggs are all in and show signs of thickening. Have ready three
ounces of butter cut into small pieces; drop one in at a time, and with
an egg-whisk beat the sauce till the butter is blended; then add another
piece, and so on, till all the butter is used. If added too quickly the
butter will oil, therefore great care must be taken to see o