ling given to evaporate the liquid and bring the
sauce back to the proper point.

_Sweetbreads in Cases._--Prepare two sweetbreads as directed in the
foregoing recipes. Put them in a stewpan with a thin slice of fat boiled
ham, half a carrot, half a turnip, and a small onion, all cut small, and
laid as a bed under the sweetbreads; put in a gill of broth, a bouquet
of herbs, and half a saltspoonful of salt, with a pinch of pepper. Let
them stew, closely covered, one hour, turning them after the first
half-hour. When done, take them up and drain them. When cold, cover with
thick d'Uxelles sauce; sprinkle thickly with very fine bread crumbs.
Make two rough paper cases, butter each liberally, and very carefully
lay each sweetbread in one, crumbed side uppermost. Put them in a quick
oven till pale brown. Have ready proper sweetbread cases, slip them
neatly into them, and serve.

These are excellent cold, in which event they should not be shifted from
the rough case until ready to serve.

FOOTNOTES:

[101-*] For recipe, see No. V.

XII.

ON THE MANNER OF PREPARING CROQUETTES, CUTLETS, KROMESKIES, RISSOLES,
AND CIGARETTES.

Although these ever-popular dishes are all or may all be prepared from
one mixture, there is a difference in the manner of using it which I
will here explain.

_Croquettes_ are made from a soft creamy mixture chilled on ice till
firm enough to mould, then simply dipped into egg and crumbs and fried
in very hot fat.

_Cutlets_ are the same (of course fancy cutlets are meant, not the
French chops, so called), only they are shaped to imitate a real cutlet,
with a little bone inserted; or, in the case of lobster cutlets, a small
claw is used to simulate the chop bone. Many only stick a sprig of
parsley where the bone should be, to keep up the fiction.

_Kromeskies_ are rolls of the same mixture enveloped in very thin
slices (hardly thicker than paper) of fat larding pork; a small
toothpick holds the pork in place. The rolls are then egged, crumbed,
and fried.

_Rissoles_ are the same thing, only rather easier to prepare, being
rolled in very thin pastry instead of pork.

_Cigarettes_, the newest variation of the favorite entree, and most
dainty of them all in appearance, are thin rolls of croquette mixture
(or, better still, quenelle meat) not thicker than a small cigar. These
are rolled in pastry, thoroughly deadened, pinched very securely, and
fried a very pale brown.

As the mann