yster sauce is simply Spanish sauce with oysters,
celery sauce, mushroom sauce, and so on. It should always be remembered
that the consistency must be preserved; that is to say, except when
special mention is made of the sauce being thinner, it should "mask the
spoon," and if the addition made to it is of a kind to dilute it, as
mushrooms and part of their liquor, it must be rapidly boiled down to
the original thickness. In the same way, when ingredients have to be
simmered in the sauce--and this is very often the case--then a
wineglassful or half one of broth or stock should be allowed for the
wasting.

In the next chapter we will make acquaintance with the miscellaneous
sauces which are not built on the foundation of either white or brown
sauce. These are chiefly cold sauces, although served with hot dishes at
times, as Tartare, Remoulade, etc.

V.

COLD SAUCES.

Cold dishes, which are such a pleasing feature of foreign cookery, are
much neglected with us, at least in private kitchens, or they are
limited to two or three articles served in mayonnaise, or a galantine,
yet the dishes which the French call _chaudfroids_ are both delicious
and ornamental, and it only requires a little taste, care, and _perfect
sauce_ to convert the ordinary cold chicken, turkey, or game into an
elaborate and choice dish.

Among cold sauces, of course mayonnaise, both green, red, and yellow,
reigns supreme; indeed, of late years it has become almost hackneyed.
Yet no work on choice eating would be complete without the different
forms of mayonnaise.

Mayonnaise is one of those sauces in which everything depends on care,
and very little on skill, and yet some women have quite a reputation for
making it among their friends who often declare how unsuccessful their
own efforts have been, and that to succeed is a gift. It is not as a
novelty, therefore, that the manner of making it is given here, but that
those who believe they have not the "magic fingers" may take courage and
try again.

First of all let me explain what seems to puzzle many. I have been
frequently asked, "How much oil can I use to two eggs?" the answer is,
"As much as you choose;" or, again, "How many eggs ought I to take to a
quart of oil?" again the answer is, "One, two, three, or four." The egg
is only a foundation, and mayonnaise will "come" no better with two
yolks than one, although some _chefs_ consider it keeps better when two
eggs are used to a pint o