t. It
requires intelligence and great care about details: no half-attention
will do, any more than it will in any other thing we attempt, whether it
be high art or domestic art.

In making sauces or reading recipes for them it simplifies matters to
remember that in savory sauces--by which I mean those served with meats
or fish--there are what the French call the two "mother sauces," white
sauce and brown; all others, with few exceptions, are modifications of
these two; that is to say, bechamel is only white sauce made with white
stock and cream instead of milk; Allemande is the same, only yolks of
eggs replace the cream; and so on through the long list of sauces
belonging to the blond variety. The simple brown sauce becomes the
famous Chateaubriand by the addition of glaze (or very strong gravy) and
a glass of white wine, and is the "mother" of many others equally fine.
This being so, it will be seen that it is of the first importance that
the making of these two "mother sauces" should be thoroughly understood,
in order for the finer ones based on them to be successfully
accomplished.

It will clear the way for easy work if I here give the directions for
making one of the most necessary and convenient aids to fine
cooking--the above-named glaze. To have it in the house saves much worry
and work. If the soup is not just so strong as we wish, the addition of
a small piece of glaze will make it excellent; or we wish to make brown
sauce, and have no stock, the glaze comes to our aid. To have stock in
the house at all times is by no means easy in a small family, especially
in summer; with glaze, which is solidified stock, one is independent of
it.

Six pounds of lean beef from the leg, or a knuckle of veal and beef to
make six pounds. Cut this in pieces two inches square or less; do the
same with half a pound of lean ham, free from rind or smoky outside, and
which has been scalded five minutes. Put the meat into a two-gallon pot
with three medium-sized onions with two cloves in each, a turnip, a
carrot, and a _small_ head of celery. Pour over them five quarts of cold
water; let it come slowly to the boiling-point, when skim, and draw to
a spot where it will gently simmer for six hours. This stock as it is
will be an excellent foundation for all kinds of clear soups or gravies,
with the addition of salt, which must on no account be added for glaze.

To reduce this stock to glaze, do as follows: Strain the stock first
thr