ollections of minerals, birds, &c.; they bring
with them numerous presents, sometimes of considerable value, which they
distribute among the dignitaries; they are, moreover, the projectors of
many an entertainment, and even of many a little ball, &c.; they buy up
every thing they can procure for their cabinets, and they always travel
in company; they have much baggage with them, and consequently require
many horses, which cannot be hired in Iceland, but must be bought. On
such occasions every one here is a dealer: offers of horses and cabinets
pour in on all sides.

The most welcome arrival of all is that of the French frigate, which
visits Iceland every year; for sometimes there are _dejeuners a la
fourchette_ on board, sometimes little evening parties and balls. There
is at least something to be got besides the rich presents; the
"Stiftsamtmann" even receives 600 florins per annum from the French
government to defray the expense of a few return balls which he gives to
the naval officers.

With me this was not the case: I gave no parties--I brought no
presents--they had nothing to expect from me; and therefore they left me
to myself. {28}

For this reason I affirm that he only can judge of the character of a
people who comes among them without claim to their attention, and from
whom they have nothing to expect. To such a person only do they appear
in their true colours, because they do not find it worth while to
dissemble and wear a mask in his presence. In these cases the traveller
is certainly apt to make painful discoveries; but when, on the other
hand, he meets with good people, he may be certain of their sincerity;
and so I must beg my honoured readers to bear with me, when I mention the
names of all those who heartily welcomed the undistinguished foreigner;
it is the only way in which I can express my gratitude towards them.

As I said before, I had intercourse with very few people, so that ample
time remained for solitary walks, during which I minutely noticed every
thing around me.

The little town of Reikjavik consists of a single broad street, with
houses and cottages scattered around. The number of inhabitants does not
amount to 500.

The houses of the wealthier inhabitants are of wood-work, and contain
merely a ground-floor, with the exception of a single building of one
story, to which the high school, now held at Bassastadt, will be
transferred next year. The house of the "Stiftsamtmann" is b