ombstone with the usual inscription, which this
coffin-like covering is intended to protect against the rude storms of
the winter.

Close beside the entrance to the church is the mound beneath which rest
the bones of Snorri Sturluson, the celebrated poet; {39} over this grave
stands a small runic stone of the length of the mound itself. This stone
is said to have once been completely covered with runic characters; but
all trace of these has been swept away by the storms of five hundred
winters, against which the tomb had no protecting coffin. The stone,
too, is split throughout its entire length into two pieces. The mound
above the grave is often renewed, so that the beholder could often fancy
he saw a new-made grave. I picked all the buttercups I could find
growing on the grave, and preserved them carefully in a book. Perhaps I
may be able to give pleasure to several of my countrywomen by offering
them a floweret from the grave of the greatest of Icelandic poets.

June 19th.

In order to pursue my journey without interruption, I hired fresh horses,
and allowed my own, which were rather fatigued, to accompany us unloaded.
My object in this further excursion was to visit the very remarkable
cavern of Surthellir, distant a good thirty-three miles from this place.
The clergyman was again kind enough to make the necessary arrangements
for me, and even to act as my Mentor on the journey.

Though we were only three strong, we departed with a retinue of seven
horses, and for nearly ten miles rode back the same way by which I had
come from Reikholt on the preceding morning; then we turned off to the
left, and crossing hills and acclivities, reached other valleys, which
were partly traversed by beautiful streams of lava, and partly
interspersed with forests--_forests_, as I have already said, according
to Icelandic notions. The separate stems were certainly slightly higher
than those in the valley of Thingvalla.

At Kalmannstunga we left the spare horses, and took with us a man to
serve as guide in the cavern, from which we were now still some seven
miles distant. The great valley in which this cavern lies is reckoned
among the most remarkable in Iceland. It is a most perfect picture of
volcanic devastation. The most beautiful masses of lava, in the most
varied and picturesque forms, occupy the whole immeasurable valley. Lava
is to be seen there in a r