ture; now the kisses poured in from all
sides, and there was no end of leave-taking, for the poor people do not
know whether they shall ever meet again, and when.

In all Iceland welcome and farewell is expressed by a loud kiss,--a
practice not very delightful for a non-Icelander, when one considers
their ugly, dirty faces, the snuffy noses of the old people, and the
filthy little children. But the Icelanders do not mind this. They all
kissed the priest, and the priest kissed them; and then they kissed each
other, till the kissing seemed to have no end. Rank is not considered in
this ceremony; and I was not a little surprised to see how my guide, a
common farm-labourer, kissed the six daughters of a judge, or the wife
and children of a priest, or a judge and the priest themselves, and how
they returned the compliment without reserve. Every country has its
peculiar customs!

The religious ceremonies generally begin about noon, and last two or
three hours. There being no public inn in which to assemble, and no
stable in which the horses can be fastened, all flock to the open space
in front of the church, which thus becomes a very animated spot. All
have to remain in the open air.

When the service was over, I visited the priest, Herr Horfuson; he was
kind enough to conduct me to the Salsun, nine miles distant, principally
to engage a guide to Hecla for me.

I was doubly rejoiced to have this good man at my side, as we had to
cross a dangerous stream, which was very rapid, and so deep that the
water rose to the horses' breasts. Although we raised our feet as high
as possible, we were yet thoroughly wet. This wading across rivers is
one of the most unpleasant modes of travelling. The horse swims more
than it walks, and this creates a most disagreeable sensation; one does
not know whither to direct one's eyes; to look into the stream would
excite giddiness, and the sight of the shore is not much better, for that
seems to move and to recede, because the horse, by the current, is forced
a little way down the river. To my great comfort the priest rode by my
side to hold me, in case I should not be able to keep my seat. I passed
fortunately through this probation; and when we reached the other shore,
Herr Horfuson pointed out to me how far the current had carried us down
the river.

The valley in which Salsun and the Hecla are situated is one of those
which are found only in Iceland. It contains the greatest con