e highest Norwegian waterfall,--when it occurred to me that the bad
weather was most favourable for my plan, as each drop of water would
increase the splendour of the waterfall.

After three hours and a half's rowing we reached Haukaness-am-See, where
it is usual to stop a night as there is a pretty farm here, and the
distance from the fall is still considerable.

August 27th.

My first care in the morning was the weather; it was unchanged, and the
experienced peasants prophesied that it would remain wet. As I would not
return nor wait for better weather, I could only take to my boat again,
put on my half-dried cloak, and row on boldly.

The termination of the lake, which we soon reached, was already
sufficient to compensate for my perseverance. A high mountain advances
into the lake, and divides it into two beautiful bays. We entered the
left bay, and landed at Mael, which lies at the mouth of the river
Rykaness. The distance from Haukaness is a little more than two miles.
I had to mount a horse to reach the waterfall, which was yet eleven miles
distant. The road runs through a narrow valley, which gradually narrows
still more until it can only contain the river; and the traveller is
obliged to ascend the heights and grope on along the sides of the
mountains. Below in the vale he sees the foam of the waves surging
against the rocks; they flow like a narrow band of silver in the deep
chasm. Sometimes the path is so high that one neither sees nor hears the
river. The last half mile has to be journeyed on foot, and goes past
spots which are really dangerous; numerous waterfalls rush from the
mountain-sides, and have to be crossed on paths of tree-trunks laid
alongside each other; and roads scarcely a foot wide lead along giddy
precipices. But the traveller may trust unhesitatingly to his guide's
arm, who has hitherto led every one in safety to his destination.

The road from Haukaness to the waterfall must be the finest that can be
imagined on a bright sunny day; for I was enchanted with the
wildly-romantic scenery in spite of the incessant rain and my wet
clothes, and would on no consideration have missed this sight.
Unfortunately the bad weather increased, and thick fogs rolled down into
the valleys. The water flowed down from the mountains, and transformed
our narrow path into a brook, through which we had to wade ankle-deep in
water. At last