er travellers, who suffered greatly
from sea-sickness, having applied for some soup to the steward, who
referred him to the amiable captain, to hear him declare he would make no
exception, and that a basin of soup would be charged the whole price of a
complete dinner. The poor man was to do without the soup, of which he
stood so much in need, or scrape every farthing together to pay a few
shillings daily for his dinner. Fortunately for him some benevolent
persons on deck paid for his meals. Some of the gentlemen brought their
own wine with them, for which they had to pay as much duty to the captain
as the wine was worth.

To these pleasures of travelling must be added the fact, that a Swedish
vessel does not advance at all if the weather is unfavourable. Most of
the passengers considered that the engines were inefficient. However
this may be, we were delayed twenty-four hours at the first half of our
journey, from Stockholm to Calmar, although we had only a slight breeze
against us and a rather high sea, but no storm. In Calmar we cast
anchor, and waited for more favourable wind. Several gentlemen, whose
business in Lubeck was pressing, left the steamer, and continued their
journey by land.

At first the Baltic very much resembles the Malarsee; for islands, rocks,
and a variety of scenery make it interesting. To the right we saw the
immensely long wooden bridge of Lindenborg, which unites one of the
larger islands with the continent.

At the end of one of the turns of the sea lies the town of Wachsholm; and
opposite to it, upon a little rocky island, a splendid fortress with a
colossal round tower. Judging by the number of cannons planted along the
walls, this fortress must be of great importance. A few hours later we
passed a similar fortress, Friedrichsborg; it is not in such an open
situation as the other, but is more surrounded by forests. We passed at
a considerable distance, and could not see much of it, nor of the castle
lying on the opposite side, which seems to be very magnificent, and is
also surrounded by woods.

The boundaries of the right shore now disappear, but then again appear as
a terrible heap of naked rocks, at whose extreme edge is situated the
fine fortress Dolero. Near it groups of houses are built on the bare
rocks projecting into the sea, and form an extensive town.

September 19th.

To-day we were on the open, somewhat stormy sea. Towards noon we arrived
at the Calmar Sound,