train-oil became one evening so intense, that, unable to
procure the delicacy in any other way, they emptied the oil-lamps. Parry
relates that when he was wintering in the Arctic regions, one of the
seamen, who had been smitten with the charms of an Esquimaux lady, wished
to make her a present, and knowing the taste peculiar to those regions,
he gave her with all due honours a pound of candles, six to the pound!
The present was so acceptable to the lady, that she eagerly devoured the
lot in the presence of her wondering admirer.--ED.

{33} An American travelling in Iceland in 1852 thus describes, in a
letter to the _Boston Post_, the mode of travelling:--"All travel is on
horseback. Immense numbers of horses are raised in the country, and they
are exceedingly cheap. As for travelling on foot, even short journeys,
no one ever thinks of it. The roads are so bad for walking, and
generally so good for riding that shoe-leather, to say nothing of
fatigue, would cost nearly as much as horse-flesh. Their horses are
small, compact, hardy little animals, a size larger than Shetland ponies,
but rarely exceeding from 12 or 13.5 hands high. A stranger in
travelling must always have a 'guide,' and if he does go equipped for a
good journey and intends to make good speed, he wants as many as six
horses; one for himself, one for the guide, one for the luggage, and
three relay horses. Then when one set of horses are tired the saddles
are exchanged to the others. The relay horses are tied together and are
either led or driven before the others. A tent is often carried, unless
a traveller chooses to chance it for his lodgings. Such an article as an
hotel is not kept in Iceland out of the capital. You must also carry
your provisions with you, as you will be able to get but little on your
route. Plenty of milk can be had, and some fresh-water fish. The
luggage is carried in trunks that are hung on each side of the horse, on
a rude frame that serves as a pack-saddle. Under this, broad pieces of
turf are placed to prevent galling the horse's back."

{34} The down of the eider-duck forms a most important and valuable
article of Icelandic commerce. It is said that the weight of down
procurable from each nest is about half a pound, which is reduced
one-half by cleansing. The down is sold at about twelve shillings per
pound, so that the produce of each nest is about three shillings. The
eider-duck is nearly as large as the comm