oat was ready, and I started in the pouring rain,
but rejoiced at least at the absence of fog, which would have concealed
the beauties of nature which surrounded me. The lake is eighteen miles
long, but in many parts only from two to three miles wide. It is
surrounded by mountains, which rise in terraces without the least gap to
admit a distant view. As the mountains are nearly all covered with dark
fir-groves, and overshadow the whole breadth of the narrow lake, the
water seems quite dark, and almost black. This lake is dangerous to
navigate on account of the many rocks rising perpendicularly out of the
water, which, in a storm, shatter a boat dashed against them to pieces,
and the passengers would find an inevitable grave in the deep waters. We
had a flesh and a favourable breeze, which blew us quickly to our
destination. One of the rocks on the coast has a very loud echo.

An island about a mile long divides the lake into equal parts; and when
we had passed it, the landscape became quite peculiar. The mountains
seemed to push before each other, and try whose foot should extend
farthest into the sea. This forms numerous lovely bays; but few of them
are adapted for landing, as the dangerous rocks seem to project every
where.

The little dots of field and meadow which seem to hang against the rock,
and the modest cottages of the peasants, which are built on the points of
the most dangerous precipices, and over which rocks and stones tower as
mountains, present a very curious appearance. The most fearful rocks
hang over the huts, and threaten to crush them by falling, which would
inevitably carry cottage and field with them into the sea. It is
difficult to say whether the boldness or the stupidity of the peasants
induces them to choose such localities for their dwellings.

From the mountains many rivers flow into the lake, and form beautiful
falls. This might only have been the case at that time, because it was
raining incessantly, and the water poured down from all sides, so that
the mountains seemed embroidered with silver threads. It was a beautiful
sight; but I would willingly have relinquished it for a day of sunshine.
It is no trifle to be exposed to such a shower-bath from morning till
night; I was wet through, and had no hope for better weather, as the sky
was clouded all round. My perseverance was nearly exhausted; and I was
on the point of relinquishing the purpose of my journey,--the sight of
th