trasts.
Here are charming fields covered with a rich green carpet of softest
grass, and there again hills of black, shining lava; even the fertile
plains are traversed by streams of lava and spots of sand. Mount Hecla
notoriously has the blackest lava and the blackest sand; and it may be
imagined how the country looks in its immediate neighbourhood. One hill
only to the left of Hecla is reddish brown, and covered with sand and
stones of a similar colour. The centre is much depressed, and seems to
form a large crater. Mount Hecla is directly united with the
lava-mountains piled round it, and seems from the plain only as a higher
point. It is surrounded by several glaciers, whose dazzling fields of
snow descend far down, and whose brilliant plains have probably never
been trod by human feet; several of its sides were also covered with
snow. To the left of the valley near Salsun, and at the foot of a
lava-hill, lies a lovely lake, on whose shores a numerous flock of sheep
were grazing. Near it rises another beautiful hill, so solitary and
isolated, that it looks as if it had been cast out by its neighbours and
banished hither. Indeed, the whole landscape here is so peculiarly
Icelandic, so strange and remarkable, that it will ever remain impressed
on my memory.

Salsun lies at the foot of Mount Hecla, but is not seen before one
reaches it.

Arrived at Salsun, our first care was to seek a guide, and to bargain for
every thing requisite for the ascension of the mountain. The guide was
to procure a horse for me, and to take me and my former guide to the
summit of Hecla. He demanded five thaler and two marks (about fifteen
shillings), a most exorbitant sum, on which he could live for a month.
But what could we do? He knew very well that there was no other guide to
be had, and so I was forced to acquiesce. When all was arranged, my kind
companion left me, wishing me success on my arduous expedition.

I now looked out for a place in which I could spend the night, and a
filthy hole fell to my lot. A bench, rather shorter that my body, was
put into it, to serve as my bed; beside it hung a decayed fish, which had
infected the whole room with its smell. I could scarcely breathe; and as
there was no other outlet, I was obliged to open the door, and thus
receive the visits of the numerous and amiable inhabitants. What a
strengthening and invigorating preparation for the morrow's expedition!

At the foot of Mount Hec