euner a la fourchette_. Every one contributed
something, and a plentiful and elegant breakfast was soon arranged, which
quite resembled an entertainment of the kind in our country; this one
circumstance excepted, that we were obliged to seat ourselves on the
ground, by reason of a scarcity of tables and benches. Spanish and
French wines, as well as cold punch, were there in plenty, and the
greatest hilarity prevailed.

I made a fourth excursion, but to a very inconsiderable distance,--in
fact, only a mile and a half from Reikjavik. It was to see a hot and
slightly sulphurous spring, which falls into a river of cold water. By
this lucky meeting of extremes, water can be obtained at any temperature,
from the boiling almost to the freezing point. The townspeople take
advantage of this good opportunity in two ways, for bathing and for
washing clothes. The latter is undoubtedly the more important purpose of
application, and a hut has been erected, in order to shield the poor
people from wind and rain while they are at work. Formerly this hut was
furnished with a good door and with glazed windows, and the key was kept
at an appointed place in the town, whence any one might fetch it. But
the servants and peasant girls were soon too lazy to go for the key; they
burst open the lock, and smashed the windows, so that now the hut has a
very ruinous appearance, and affords but little protection against the
weather. How much alike mankind are every where, and how seldom they do
right, except when it gives them no trouble, and then, unfortunately,
there is not much merit to be ascribed to them, as their doing right is
merely the result of a lucky chance! Many people also bring fish and
potatoes, which they have only to lay in the hot water, and in a short
time both are completely cooked.

This spring is but little used for the purpose of bathing; at most
perhaps by a few children and peasants. Its medicinal virtues, if it
possesses any, are completely unknown.

THE SULPHUR-SPRINGS AND SULPHUR-MOUNTAINS OF KRISUVIK.

The 4th of June was fixed for my departure. I had only to pack up some
bread and cheese, sugar and coffee, then the horses were saddled, and at
seven o'clock the journey was happily commenced. I was alone with my
guide, who, like the rest of his class, could not be considered as a very
favourable specimen of humanity. He was very lazy, exceedingly
self-interested, and singularly loath to devote any p