footstep imprinted itself deeply, suggesting to the traveller the
unpleasant possibility of his sinking through,--a contingency rendered
any thing but agreeable by the neighbourhood of the boiling springs. At
length I gained the summit, and saw around me numerous basins filled with
boiling water, while on all sides, from hill and valley, columns of
vapour rose out of numberless clefts in the rocks. From a cleft in one
rock in particular a mighty column of vapour whirled into the air. On
the windward side I could approach this place very closely. The ground
was only lukewarm in some places, and I could hold my hand for several
moments to the gaps from which steam issued. No trace of a crater was to
be seen. The bubbling and hissing of the steam, added to the noise of
the wind, occasioned such a deafening clamour, that I was very glad to
feel firmer ground beneath my feet, and to leave the place in haste. It
really seemed as if the interior of the mountain had been a boiling
caldron. The prospect from these mountains is very fine. Numerous
valleys and mountains innumerable offered themselves to my view, and I
could even discern the isolated black rock past which I had ridden five
or six hours previously.

I now commenced my descent into the valley; at a few hundred paces the
bubbling and hissing were already inaudible. I supposed that I had seen
every thing worthy of notice; but much that was remarkable still
remained. I particularly noticed a basin some five or six feet in
diameter, filled with boiling mud. This mud has quite the appearance of
fine clay dissolved in water; its colour was a light grey.

From another basin, hardly two feet in diameter, a mighty column of steam
shot continually into the air with so much force and noise that I started
back half stunned, and could have fancied the vault of heaven would
burst. This basin is situated in a corner of the valley, closely shut in
on three sides by hills. In the neighbourhood many hot springs gushed
forth; but I saw no columns of water, and my guide assured me that such a
phenomenon was never witnessed here.

There is more danger in passing these spots than even in traversing the
mountains. In spite of the greatest precautions, I frequently sank in
above the ankles, and would then draw back with a start, and find my foot
covered with hot mud. From the place where I had broken through, steam
and hot mud, or boiling water, rose into the air.

Thoug