o lose no time in continuing my
wanderings. I had next to make a tour of some 560 miles; it was
therefore necessary that I should take an extra horse, partly that it
might carry my few packages, consisting of a pillow, some rye-bread,
cheese, coffee, and sugar, but chiefly that I might be enabled to change
horses every day, as one horse would not have been equal to the fatigue
of so long a journey.

My former guide could not accompany me on my present journey, as he was
unacquainted with most of the roads. My kind protectors, Herr Knudson
and Herr Bernhoft, were obliging enough to provide another guide for me;
a difficult task, as it is a rare occurrence to find an Icelander who
understands the Danish language, and who happens to be sober when his
services are required. At length a peasant was found who suited our
purpose; but he considered two florins per diem too little pay, so I was
obliged to give an additional zwanziger. On the other hand, it was
arranged that the guide should also take two horses, in order that he
might change every day.

The 16th of June was fixed for the commencement of our journey. From the
very first day my guide did not shew himself in an amiable point of view.
On the morning of our departure his saddle had to be patched together,
and instead of coming with two horses, he appeared with only one. He
certainly promised to buy a second when we should have proceeded some
miles, adding that it would be cheaper to buy one at a little distance
from the "capital." I at once suspected this was merely an excuse of the
guide's, and that he wished thereby to avoid having the care of four
horses. The event proved I was right; not a single horse could be found
that suited, and so my poor little animal had to carry the guide's
baggage in addition to my own.

Loading the pack-horses is a business of some difficulty, and is
conducted in the following manner: sundry large pieces of dried turf are
laid upon the horse's back, but not fastened; over these is buckled a
round piece of wood, furnished with two or three pegs. To these pegs the
chests and packages are suspended. If the weight is not quite equally
balanced, it is necessary to stop and repack frequently, for the whole
load at once gets askew.

The trunks used in this country are massively constructed of wood,
covered with a rough hide, and strengthened on all sides with nails, as
though they were intended to last an eternity. The poor hor