we only
proceeded seven miles to the little village of Reikiadal, where I halted
to-day, in order to visit the celebrated springs.
The inconsiderable village called Reikiadal, consisting only of a church
and a few cottages, is situated amidst pleasant meadows. Altogether this
valley is rich in beautiful meadow-lands; consequently one sees many
scattered homesteads and cottages, with fine herds of sheep, and a
tolerable number of horses; cows are less plentiful.
The church at Reikiadal is among the neatest and most roomy of those
which came under my observation. The dwelling of the priest too, though
only a turf-covered cottage, is large enough for the comfort of the
occupants. This parish extends over a considerable area, and is not
thinly inhabited.
My first care on my arrival was to beg the clergyman, Herr Jonas Jonason,
to procure for me, as expeditiously as possible, fresh horses and a
guide, in order that I might visit the springs. He promised to provide
me with both within half an hour; and yet it was not until three hours
had been wasted, that, with infinite pains, I saw my wish fulfilled.
Throughout my stay in Iceland, nothing annoyed me more than the slowness
and unconcern displayed by the inhabitants in all their undertakings.
Every wish and every request occupies a long time in its fulfilment. Had
I not been continually at the good pastor's side, I believe I should
scarcely have attained my object. At length every thing was ready, and
the pastor himself was kind enough to be my guide.
We rode about four miles through this beautiful vale, and in this short
distance were compelled at least six times to cross the river Sidumule,
which rolls its most tortuous course through the entire valley. At
length the first spring was reached; it emerges from a rock about six
feet in height, standing in the midst of a moor. The upper cavity of the
natural reservoir, in which the water continually boils and seethes, is
between two and three feet in diameter. This spring never stops; the jet
of water rises two, and sometimes even four feet high, and is about
eighteen inches thick. It is possible to increase the volume of the jet
for a few seconds, by throwing large stones or lumps of earth into the
opening, and thus stirring up the spring. The stones are cast forcibly
forth, and the lumps of earth, dissolved by the action of the water,
impart to the latter a dingy colour.
Whoever has seen the jet of water
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