on account of some
very bad places which must occasionally be encountered. On the whole
island not a single carriage is to be found.

The road is only dangerous when it leads through swamps and moors, or
over fields of lava. Among these fields, such as are covered with white
moss are peculiarly to be feared, for the moss frequently conceals very
dangerous holes, into which the horse can easily stumble. In ascending
and descending the hills very formidable spots sometimes oppose the
traveller's progress. The road is at times so hidden among swamps and
bogs, that not a trace of it is to be distinguished, and I could only
wonder how my guide always succeeded in regaining the right path. One
could almost suppose that on these dangerous paths both horse and man are
guided by a kind of instinct.

Travelling is more expensive in Iceland than any where else, particularly
when one person travels alone, and must bear all the expense of the
baggage, the guide, ferries, &c. Horses are not let out on hire, they
must be bought. They are, however, very cheap; a pack-horse costs from
eighteen to twenty-four florins, and a riding-horse from forty to fifty
florins. To travel with any idea of comfort it is necessary to have
several pack-horses, for they must not be heavily laden; and an
additional servant must likewise be hired, as the guide only looks after
the saddle-horses, and, at most, one or two of the pack-horses. If the
traveller, at the conclusion of the journey, wishes to sell the horses,
such a wretchedly low price is offered, that it is just as well to give
them away at once. This is a proof of the fact that men are every where
alike ready to follow up their advantage. These people are well aware
that the horses must be left behind at any rate, and therefore they will
not bid for them. I must confess that I found the character of the
Icelanders in every respect below the estimate I had previously formed of
it, and still further below the standard given in books.

In spite of their scanty food, the Icelandic horses have a marvellous
power of endurance; they can often travel from thirty-five to forty miles
per diem for several consecutive days. But the only difficulty is to
keep the horse moving. The Icelanders have a habit of continually
kicking their heels against the poor beast's sides; and the horse at last
gets so accustomed to this mode of treatment, that it will hardly go if
the stimulus be discontinued.