r immense delicacies.

The first dish appeared in the form of a delicate pilau, composed of
mutton, cucumbers, and a quantity of spice, which rendered it more
unpalatable to me than common pilau. Then followed sliced cucumbers
sprinkled with salt; but as the chief ingredients, vinegar and oil,
were entirely wanting, I was obliged to force down the cucumber as
best I could. Next came rice-milk, so strongly flavoured with attar
of roses, that the smell alone was more than enough for me; and now
at length the last course was put on the table--stale cheese made of
ewe's milk, little unpeeled girkins, which my entertainers coolly
discussed rind and all, and burnt hazel-nuts. The bread, which is
flat like pancakes, is not baked in ovens, but laid on metal plates
or hot stones, and turned when one side is sufficiently done. It
tastes better than I should have expected. {101}

Our conversation during dinner was most interesting. Some of the
family spoke a little Italian, but this little was pronounced with
such a strong Greek accent, that I was obliged to guess at the
greater portion of what was said. No doubt they had to do the same
with me. The worthy Consul, indeed, affirmed that he knew French
very well; but for this evening at least, his memory seemed to have
given him the slip. Much was spoken, and little understood. The
same thing is said often to be the case in learned societies; so it
was not of much consequence.

There are many different kinds of cucumber in Syria, where they are
a favourite dish with rich and poor. I found numerous varieties,
but none that I found superior to our German one. Another favourite
fruit is the water-melon, here called "bastek." These also I found
neither larger in size nor better flavoured than the melons I had
eaten in southern Hungary.

The Consul's house seems sufficiently large; but the architectural
arrangement is so irregular that the extended area contains but few
rooms and very little comfort. The apartments are lofty and large,
extremely ill-furnished, and not kept in the best possible order.

I slept in the apartment of the married daughter; but had it not
been for the beds standing round, I should rather have looked upon
it as an old store-closet than a lady's sleeping-room.

May 28th.

At five o'clock in the morning Mr. Bartlett's servant came to fetch
me away, as we were at once to continue our journey. I betook
myself to the house of the English Consul