ere very much damaged, with large cracks in the walls, and
shattered terraces and towers: every where, in short, we wandered
among ruins. Above 4000 persons, more than half of the entire
population, are said to have perished by this earthquake.
We alighted at the house of a Jewish doctor, who entertains
strangers, as there is no inn at Tabarith. I was quite surprised to
find every thing so clean and neat in this man's house. The little
rooms were simply but comfortably furnished, the small courtyard was
flagged with large stones, and round the walls of the hall were
ranged narrow benches with soft cushions. We were greatly
astonished at this appearance of neatness and order; but our wonder
rose when we made the discovery that the Jews, who are very numerous
at Tabarith, are not clothed in the Turkish or Greek fashion, but
quite like their brethren in Poland and Galicia. Most of them also
spoke German. I immediately inquired the reason of this
peculiarity, and was informed that all the Jewish families resident
in this town originally came from Poland or Russia, with the
intention of dying in the Promised Land. As a rule, all Jews seem
to cherish a warm desire to pass their last days in the country of
their forefathers, and to be buried there.
We requested our young hostess, whose husband was absent, to prepare
for us without delay a good quantity of pilau and fowls; adding,
that we would in the mean time look at the town and the neighbouring
baths at the Sea of Gennesareth, but that we should return in an
hour and a half at the most.
We then proceeded to the Sea of Gennesareth, which is a fresh-water
lake. We entered a fisherman's boat, in order that we might sail on
the waters where our Lord had once bid the winds "be still." We
were rowed to the warm springs, which rise near the shore, a few
hundred paces from the town. On the lake all was calm; but no
sooner had we landed than a storm arose--between the fishermen and
ourselves. In this country, if strangers neglect to bargain
beforehand for every stage with guides, porters, and people of this
description, they are nearly sure of being charged an exorbitant sum
in the end. This happened to us on our present little trip, which
certainly did not occupy more than half an hour. We took our seats
in the boat without arranging for the fares; and on disembarking
offered the fishermen a very handsome reward. But these worthies
threw down the money, and de
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