fers many fine views, but the grotto itself is not
worth seeing.

Frequently in the evening I went to visit an Arab family, when I
would sit upon the top of the tower and enjoy the sight of the
beautiful sunset.

A very strong military force was posted at Beyrout, consisting
entirely of Arnauts. They had pitched their tents outside the town,
which thus wore the appearance of a camp. Many of these towns do
not contain barracks; and as the soldiers are not here quartered in
private houses, they are compelled to bivouack in the open field.

The bazaar is very large and straggling. On one occasion I had the
misfortune to lose myself among its numerous lanes, from which it
took me some time to extricate myself; I had an opportunity of
seeing many of the articles of merchandise, and an immense number of
shops, but none which contained any thing very remarkable. Once
more I found how prone people are to exaggerate. I had been warned
to abstain from walking in the streets, and, above all, to avoid
venturing into the bazaar. I neglected both pieces of advice, and
walked out once or twice every day during my stay, without once
meeting with an adventure of any kind.

I had already been at Beyrout ten long, long days, and still no
opportunity offered of getting to Alexandria. But at the end of
June the worthy artist Sattler, whose acquaintance I had made at
Constantinople, arrived here. He found me out, and proposed that I
should travel to Damascus with Count Berchtold, a French gentleman
of the name of De Rousseau, and himself, instead of wasting my time
here. This proposition was a welcome one to me, for I ardently
desired to be released from my fowls' nest. My arrangements were
soon completed, for I took nothing with me except some linen and a
mattress, which were packed on my horse's back.

JOURNEY FROM BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS, BALBECK, AND MOUNT LEBANON.

July 1st.

At one o'clock in the afternoon we were all assembled before the
door of M. Battista's inn, and an hour later we were in our saddles
hastening towards the town-gate. At first we rode through a deep
sea of sand surrounding the town; but soon we reached the beautiful
valley which lies stretched at the foot of the Anti-Libanus, and
afterwards proceeded towards the range by pleasant paths, shaded by
pine-woods and mulberry-plantations.

But now the ascent of the magnificent Anti-Libanus became steeper
and more dangerous, as we advanced on rocky paths,