ks,
and china plates gleamed invitingly. A servant in European garb
placed some capital fast-day fare on the table (it was Friday), and
a polite priest kept us company; but not in eating, for he rightly
considered that such a hungry company would not require any example
to fall to.
During the whole remainder of our journey through Syria this convent
occupied a green spot in our memory. How capitally would a few
days' rest here have recruited our strength! But the gentlemen had
a distant goal before their eyes, and "Forward!" was still the cry.
After dinner we went down to the sea-shore, to visit the large
grotto called the "Prophets' school." This grotto has really the
appearance of a lofty and spacious hall, where a number of disciples
could have sat and listened to the words of the prophet.
The grotto in which Elijah is said to have lived is situated in a
church at the top of the mountain. Mount Carmel is quite barren,
being only covered here and there with brambles; but the view is
magnificent. In the foreground the eye can roam over the boundless
expanse of ocean, while at the foot of the mountain it fords a
resting-place in the considerable town of Haifa, lying in a fertile
plain, which extends to the base of the high mountains, bounded in
the distance by the Anti-Libanus, and farther still by the Lebanon
itself. Along the line of coast we can distinguish Acre (or
Ptolemais), Sur (Tyre), and Soida (Sidon).
June 18th.
This morning we sent our poor over-tired horses on before us to
Hese, and walked on foot at midday under a temperature of 33 degrees
to Haifas, a distance of more than two miles. Heated and exhausted
to the last degree we reached the house of the Consul, who is a
Catholic, but seems nevertheless to live quite in Oriental fashion.
This gentleman is consul both for France and Austria. Although he
was not at home when we arrived, we were immediately shewn into the
room of state, where we reclined on soft divans, and were regaled
with sherbet of all colours, green, yellow, red, etc., and with
coffee flavoured with roses, which we did not like. Hookahs (or
tchibuks) were also handed round. At length the Consul's wife
appeared, a young and beautiful lady of an imposing figure, dressed
in the Oriental garb. She smoked her tchibuk with as much ease as
the gentlemen. Luckily a brother of this lady who understood
something of Italian was present, and kindly acted as interpreter.
I have
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