pillars. But all these buildings, not even excepting the great
bathing-house, would be far less praised and looked at if they stood
in a better neighbourhood. As the case is, however, they shine
forth nobly from among the clay houses of Damascus.

In the afternoon we visited the Grotto of St. Paul, lying
immediately outside the town. On the ramparts we were shewn the
place where the apostle is said to have leaped from the wall on
horseback, reaching the ground in safety, and taking refuge from his
enemies in the neighbouring grotto, which is said to have closed
behind him by miracle, and not to have opened again until his
persecutors had ceased their pursuit. At present, nothing is to be
seen of this grotto excepting a small stone archway, like that of a
bridge. Tombs of modern date, consisting of vaults covered with
large blocks of stone, are very numerous near this grotto.

We paid several more visits, and every where found great pomp of
inner arrangement and decoration, varying of course in different
houses. We were always served with coffee, sherbet, and argile; and
in the houses of the Turks a dreary conversation was carried on
through the medium of an interpreter.

Walks and places of amusement there are none. The number of Franks
resident here is too small to call for a place of general
recreation, and the Turk never feels a want of this kind. The most
he does is to saunter slowly from the bath to the coffee-house, and
there to kill his time with the help of a pipe and a cup of coffee,
staring vacantly on the ground before him. Although the coffee-
houses are more frequented than any other buildings in the East,
they are often miserable sheds, being all small, and generally built
only of wood.

The inhabitants of Damascus wear the usual Oriental garb, but as a
rule I thought them better dressed than in any Eastern town. Some
of the women are veiled, but others go abroad with their faces
uncovered. I saw here some very attractive countenances; and an
unusual number of lovely children's heads looked at me from all
sides with an inquisitive smile.

In reference to religious matters, these people seem very fanatical;
they particularly dislike strangers. For instance, the painter S.
wished to make sketches of the khan, the fountain, and a few other
interesting objects or views. For this purpose he sat down before
the great coffee-house to begin with the fountain; but scarcely had
he opened his port